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Welcome to Antarctica!

Dr. Dowling’s Most Excellent Antarctic Adventures

Winter 2005-2006

Our journey to Antarctica took us from:

Memphis, TN  to Dallas, TX

Dallas, TX to Los Angeles, CA

Los Angeles to Auckland, New Zealand

Auckland, New Zealand to Christchurch, New Zealand

Christchurch, New Zealand to McMurdo Station, Ross Island, Antarctica

Psst:  Photos of animals and historical monuments are located at the end. 


24 November
Thanksgiving Day

Ms. Leonette Cox, a PhD students in the Graduate Program in Environmental Sciences, Mr. Jarrett Slade Wright, an ASU undergraduate, and I (Assistant Professor at ASU) started our travels to Antarctica on Thanksgiving Day.


Carolyn Dowling, Slade Wright, and Leonette Cox at the Memphis Airport.

We flew from Memphis Airport (MEM) to Dallas Airport (DFW) to Los Angeles International Airport (LAX). Our international journey began at LAX where we met up with Dr. Glen Snyder from Rice University, the final member of our field team.

Our flight to New Zealand was over 12 hours. It was a surprisingly comfortable flight with decent food and beverages.

26 November

We arrived in Auckland, New Zealand (North Island) on 26 November. Because we crossed the International Date Line, we missed 25 November! Good thing that no one had a birthday that day!

Yes, by this point, we have been traveling for a very long time already and we haven’t even gotten to our final destination in New Zealand (NZ) yet! After going through customs, we went to the domestic terminal for our flight to Christchurch, NZ (South Island). A number of fellow travelers to Antarctica were also on this flight.

Once we arrived in Christchurch (finally!), a representative from the United States Antarctic Program (USAP) met us. Our hotel reservations and remaining schedule in New Zealand were given to us. Because we have been traveling 24+ hours, we were tired! However, NZ is a day ahead and 6 hours time difference (18 hours from the East Coast, USA), we needed to acclimate ourselves to the new time zone by still staying up.

Once we were settled down, a group of fellow Antarctic travelers meet and walked through the beautiful Botanical Gardens of Christchurch.


Blooming Yellow Rose in the Botanical Gardens.


Slade Wright, Carolyn Dowling, Leonette Cox, and Glen Snyder in Christchurch, NZ
(credit:  Passing Tourist)

27 November

Because we were going to Antarctica, Extreme Cold Weather (ECW) gear was issued to us at the USAP Clothing Distribution Center (CDC). We received many pieces of warm clothing to take with us.


Examples of ECW gear that were issued to us.


Thermal boots aka “Bunny Boots.”

28 November

Today is the day that we leave for Antarctica! We woke up early and got our last minute items packed. We boarded a New Zealand military craft (C-130; Herc) and flew to McMurdo Station, Ross Island, Antarctica.


Tight quarters in a military plane!

We arrived at McMurdo Station which is located on Ross Island in the Ross Ice Shelf off the coast of Southern Victoria Land. It is a working community whose sole function is to support the science that goes on in Antarctica. There is the Crary Science Laboratory (pride and joy of the National Science Foundation (NSF)), Science Support Center (field equipment, survival training, etc), Berg Field Center (camping equipment), Carpenter Shop, Electrician Shop, Vehicle Maintenance Facility, Helo Pad, Galley (cafeteria style food), Dormitories, etc. During the peak (austral summer, near Christmas time), there are ~1000 people housed at McMurdo Station.


McMurdo Station as viewed from Observation Hill (ObHill) (North side).


McMurdo Station as viewed from Hut Point (South side).

Antarctica has an incredibly beautiful yet indescribable landscape. The pictures that are on this website and others do not do Antarctica justice. You need to come see for yourselves the incredible beauty and awesome stark landscapes of this continent.

29 November to 04 December

Lots of Training, Lots of Meetings…

In order to sample lake water from lakes with permanent ice covers, a hole must be drilled through the ice cover. This hole allows sampling equipment to be lowered down to discrete depths for sampling. As part of our training, we tested our drilling equipment on the frozen McMurdo Sound, just off McMurdo Station.


We were testing our drilling equipment on the frozen McMurdo Sound.

05 December

For many of my group, today represents their first helicopter (helo) trip. We flew to Lake Vanda, Wright Valley, to help another team drill a hole in its ice cover.


Helicopter landed at Lake Vanda


Helicopter taking off from Lake Vanda


Helicopter flying up Wright Valley, from Lake Vanda


Drilling the hole at Lake Vanda


Slade Wright and Leonette Cox at Lake Vanda


Carolyn Dowling at Lake Vanda
(credit: G. Snyder)

06-07 December

We made sure all our sampling equipment was packed.

08-09 December

Because Lake Vanda is 70 m deep and we sampled at 2 m intervals down the water column, we had to sample the lake over two days…two VERY long days. This requires getting up early, getting to the heliport early, boarding the helo, flying ~60 minutes to our destination, and start working. At the end of the day, the helo returns to pick us up. Repeat next day. Each work day is approximately 16+ hours long.

10-12 December

The water samples were processed right away.

Our next destination was Lake Garwood in Garwood Valley so we got our drilling equipment packed.

13 December

Our trip to Lake Garwood was a disappointment as the permanent ice cover was too thin. It was too thin for us to even work upon it, much less a helo to land on it.


Leonette Cox and Slade Wright in a helo.


Carolyn Dowling, Trevor Deighton (RPSC employee), Glen Snyder, Leonette Cox, and Slade Wright in front of a helo.

14-15 December

Plans were quickly changed to drilling Lake Joyce in Pearse Valley. We planned to stay overnight at Lake Joyce and camp out on its ice cover due its thick ice cover, which requires a bit more planning than a day trip.

16-19 December

We arrived and set up camp while we waited for the rest of our equipment to arrive. Once we received our equipment, we started drilling and melting a hole in the ice cover. Because the ice cover averages 6-7 m thick, we decided to drill through most of it and then using something called a Hotsy to melt the rest of the hole. Because of the ice thickness, it is not easy to use a jiffy drill with so many flights attached to it. It gets extremely heavy and awkward to use. Once the hole was drilled down to 5 m, the Hotsy was used to melt the rest of the way. On average, the Hotsy can melt through 1 m of ice is 6-7 hours. It took over 13 hours to break through the ice cover but it was great to see that water! I got 3 hours of sleep that night because we had to take turns watching the Hotsy.


Lake Joyce, Pearse Valley.
Taylor Glacier is located south of Lake Joyce (right in the photo.)


Camp at Lake Joyce

After our hole was made, we were ready to go. Unfortunately, bad weather moved into the area and the helos were unable to pick us up. We camped out for an additional 2.5 days, waiting for better weather.


A rare snowfall in the Dry Valleys of Antarctica.
Remember Antarctica is a polar desert.

Once we did get picked up, we rushed around to get for our scheduled sampling trip on 20 December. Showers and clean clothes were also a priority!

20 December

Once again, the weather got bad and we were delayed, except we were in McMurdo Station this time where there were flush toilets!

21 December

Even though the weather wasn’t look good, we decided to risk getting stuck overnight again. Luck was with us. We sampled Lake Joyce in record time and got picked up early.

22 December

The water samples were processed right away.

23 December

We returned some of the issued drilling and camping gear to us.

The McMurdo Christmas Party that was held that evening was quite fun! There was music, food, beverages, dancing, photo taking, and all-around gaiety!

24-25 December

This weekend is our first official days off since the beginning of our trip on Thanksgiving Day.


Animals

There are few animals that live in Antarctica. The Skua, a larger cousin of the more common seagull in the US, is a scavenger. The Weddell Seal is a seal that will lie on the ice during the summer months. There is an Adelie Penguin Rookery near Ross Island. Typically in January, the penguins visit McMurdo Station.


A Skua with the Royal Society Mountains in the background

 


A Skua at Vince’s Cross, Hut Point, Ross Island

 


Weddell Seal at Winter Quarters Bay near Hut Point, Ross Island


Historical Monuments

In 1902, Captain R. F. Scott and his crew built this hut at Hut Point, Ross Island. It had been used by other early explorers. McMurdo Station was built next to this historical monument.

Over time, several people have lost their lives in pursuit on science on Antarctica.

The Scott Party (Captain R. F. Scott and 4 others) died during their return journey from the South Pole in 1912.

Vince’s Cross commemoratives the death of George Vince, a crewmen of the Discovery, who drowned near Ross Island in early 1900s.

The Lady of the Snow memorial is a tribute to a Richard T. Williams, US Navy who lost his life in 1956 during Operation Deep Freeze.


All photos were taken by Dr. Carolyn Dowling unless otherwise stated. 

 

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